How a Septic Tanks & Drainfields Function

Waste water leaves the house and enters the septic tank. The septic tank acts as a holding tank and allows the solids to settle-out. The heavier solids sink to the bottom, forming a sludge layer, while the lighter solids (fats, oils, grease, etc) rise to the surface and form a scum layer. The layer in the middle is called the effluent. The naturally occurring anaerobic bacteria begin breaking down the solids in size and destroying the pathogens .

DO NOT USE ADDITIVES TO YOUR SYSTEM. Doing so will disrupt the natural process and can cause damage.

After the treatment process begins in the septic tank, the effluent enters the soil treatment phase of the process. Baffles prevent the larger floating solids to enter the drainfield. The drainfield consists of distribution pipe laid in a trench, partially filled with gravel and covered with topsoil.

As the effluent enters the drainfield, it percolates through the gravel bed where a large portion of the pathogens are destroyed. As the effluent exits the drainfield, the natural soil completes the treatment process. By the time that the effluent has traveled 2-3 feet through the soil, all of the pathogens have been destroyed and the water is drinking quality. The cleaning process continues as the water migrates through the soil.

SOME CAUSES OF SEPTIC SYSTEM FAILURE SOLUTIONS

Seldom does the actual septic tank fail, but rather the drainfield when it becomes plugged with solids that were intended to remain in the septic tank. When it becomes clogged, the effluent can no longer migrate through the soil.

Basically, good bacteria eats bad bacteria. In saying that, you should never flush any plastic, baby wipes, cigarette butts, etc. into your septic tank. Bacteria can not eat through these items.

Solids build up in the tank leaving little or no settling room for new solids. This can cause a back up of sewage into your home.

PUMP YOUR SEPTIC TANK! Have your tank pumped and inspected every 1-3 years. Tanks should be pumped through the manhole cover, NOT THE INSPECTION PIPE.

Putting too much water down the drain than the system can handle, overloading the system.

A septic system can only handle a certain amount of water per day. If possible, try to spread your clothes washing out over a couple of days, rather than doing it all in one day.

Also, repair plumbing leaks. A leaking toilet valve can cause hundreds of gallons of water to go unessisarily through the system everyday.

Garbage disposal solids remain in suspension until reaching the drainfield where they plug the pores of the soil bed.

Do not use or minimize the use of the garbage disposal.

Chemicals are over used and kill the bacteria in the system, stopping the natural treatment process.

Too many harsh chemicals and cleaning solutions will kill off the good bacteria, disrupting the natural process. Try to limit your use of chemicals (bleach, cleaning solutions) going into the septic tank.

Baffles in the tank are not of proper size or are damaged or have fallen off.

Exit baffles should be replaced with a sanitary tee. These tees are glued and will not fall off, preventing the larger solids from reaching the drainfield and clogging the system.

DO NOT DRIVE OVER YOUR SEPTIC TANK OR DRAINFIELD

Septic Certification steps can include:

•  The tank is pumped and inspected for cracks, missing/broken baffles, excessive drainback from the drainfield.

•  We physically view the scum line to see where it is or has been in previous operation of the system.

•  Size of the tank is determined

•  We measure the water level ratio in a 30 minute span of the water entering the tank. (dye may or may not be necessary)

•  Size and depth of the drainfield is determined: If available from the local Environmental Health Department.

•  Depth of seasonal water tables should be determined: This could fail a low line septic system due to this condition. Buyer/Seller to agree

•  Inspection of the distubution box may be necessary if the water level is rising in height measurement.

•  If no distribution box is present to locate the fields, a probe rod will be used to check for hydalic failure of high water.

•  Distance of the well and any other part of the septic system is to be 50' or greater.

Remember, the most important septic factor in buying a pre-exisitng home:

Even if the results of the septic certification give a passing grade, the septic system could fail at any time. The septic certification only certifies that the system was working properly at the day and time of the certification.

Note: The above inspection/certification steps would be determined by what was found upon first site visit. The buyer (buyer's agent) and seller (seller's agent) may want to perform a more thorough inspection based on initial results. The minimum cost for a septic certification is $175 and may go up based on the work performed.